Tag Archives: Blue dress

Polkadot Dress

One of my all time favourite fabrics has to be the polkadot.

It’s always in fashion, either on shirts and blouses or dresses and scarfs. I have chosen this gorgeous blue spot today, which I suppose is a little bit corporate. I like smart though and I think it works well in this style of dress with the half sleeves.

Polkadot Dress Fitting image
Polkadot Dress Fitting
Polkadot Dress Layout image
Polkadot Dress Layout

Although this is a pattern which I have used before and it is in my go to dress pattern pile on the shelf, it came out a bit snug when I did my fitting and I had to let the seams out about half an inch on each side, as much as I could reasonably squeeze out of the seam allowance. I must have put a bit of weight on recently!

Polkadot Dress Front
Polkadot Dress Front

The dress is not lined, as the weather is warming up, and I have simply finished off the neck edge with a facing which is under stitched and secured at the shoulders.

Polkadot Dress back fitting image
Polkadot Dress back fitting
Polkadot Dress front image
Polkadot Dress front

Vanity sizing

I get quite a few emails asking for advice about which pattern size to use. Few of us fit the average dress size or even the size on the pattern packet.

I’ve done some digging around on the internet and discovered that pattern sizing, along with ready to wear clothes sizing has changed a lot over the years and continues to change. It is often referred to as vanity sizing and reflects the growing size of the general population. Example, in 1931 the smallest standard size for women was a size 10 US, which had a bust measurement of 28 inches, by 1971, forty years later, the smallest available size was a 6, however a size 10 now fit a bust of 33 ½ inches. Now another forty or so years on a US size 10 is made for a bust of 36 inches and we have seen the creation of size zero and negative sizes to accommodate people who have a small frame. With all this standard size changing as well as variation in sizing between the pattern manufactures its hardly surprising we get in such a mess when it comes to choosing which one to use to achieve the best fit.

First of all you need to know your own body measurements. Don’t guess at this, it is well worth being honest with the tape measure and making a note of what you are in both inches and centemeters. Some European patterns like Burda and Ottobre are in cm. Take more measurements than you think you need for the pattern to make any alterations possible. For instance under the bust, around the upper arm (arm girth), around the thigh and the full hip, where the waist is larger than the hip.

If you are fitting for a dress it is best to use your bust measurement as the lead measurement. This will give you the best chance of the right fit around the shoulders and back as well as the armholes. Make your pattern alterations as you work down the body from the correct bust. For the waist, if you need to increase, divide the increase by four and add it to each side seam, if my waist measures 34 inches and the pattern is for a waist of 30 inches then I divide the extra four inches and add one inch to each side seam at the waist line. Draw a smooth line down from the armpit to the new waist. Repeat this for the hip measurement as well. If you need to decrease the waist, then you are lucky, simply adjust the pattern by decreasing at the side seams.

Working in this way will mean that the sleeves will still fit in the arm holes and any darts will be in the same place. Of course there are many different advanced fitting alterations you can do to get the perfect fit but this is just intended to be a guide to choosing which size pattern to use as a starting point.

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Happy Sewing

Blue Dress

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Do I look blue?

I don’t make a habit of posting pattern reviews as that is not really how I work. I would usually like to find my inspiration and then work out how to create a dress or outfit from that starting point, out of the patterns I have either bought, altered or made myself. For some reason though I wanted to take this very mundane and ordinary, even frumpy looking pattern, New Look 6305 and work with it to come up with a usable item. A personal challenge for myself to create a wearable garment or two.

Last time I showed you how I made the Sheer Shirt from view D on the packet envelope, this time I have used chosen to sew view A, the dress with sleeves.

Sheer Shirt Pattern image
Sheer Shirt Pattern

I made three decisions about the pattern before I had even started to cut it out, to take ten, yes a full ten, inches off the length of the dress, to have short sleeves for the summer and to add inseam pockets to both side seams. As it is a loose fitting, easy day dress I wanted the addition of the pockets for more practicality. I used my own pattern for the pockets which I had used previously in my Dallia Dress.

Blue Dress Layout image
Blue Dress Layout

My main concern about the construction of this dress was the fact that it has no zipper or back/front opening and I wondered how it would fit over the head. Now It is finished though I can tell you that this is not an issue at all, it slips on very easily even though the fabric I have used has no stretch in it whatsoever. It is a woven crepe fabric, I was attracted by the vivid colour for this blue dress.

The dress has princess seams in both the back and the front of the body, they are not graded by bust size as some patterns are, which means that the fit of the dress on my smaller frame is very baggy, much more roomy than I would normally be comfortable wearing. Considering that the full pattern is for a floor length dress with sleeves to the wrist, this is a real cover it all up style. If that is what you want then this is the perfect pattern for you, however I have struggled with finding ways to be complimentary about this pattern. I have not enjoyed sewing this dress together and it will not be making the journey into my favourites list any time soon. I will however try and reflect upon the lessons learnt in the process and that I have learnt more about my own likes and dislikes about my own creative process which was very much missing here.

Blue Dress Side image
Blue Dress Side
Blue Dress Back image
Blue Dress Back

You can bet that my next post is going to be more about my style, a more fitted type of dress which compliments the figure in a much more feminine way. I will be using an old favorite which I know fits well and mixing it up a bit to create a smart summer dress for a special family occasion.

That said, it was a straightforward sew which I can recommend as a beginner project, no fastenings or lining to worry about.

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Happy Sewing