Tag Archives: burda

Polkadot Dress

One of my all time favourite fabrics has to be the polkadot.

It’s always in fashion, either on shirts and blouses or dresses and scarfs. I have chosen this gorgeous blue spot today, which I suppose is a little bit corporate. I like smart though and I think it works well in this style of dress with the half sleeves.

Polkadot Dress Fitting image
Polkadot Dress Fitting
Polkadot Dress Layout image
Polkadot Dress Layout

Although this is a pattern which I have used before and it is in my go to dress pattern pile on the shelf, it came out a bit snug when I did my fitting and I had to let the seams out about half an inch on each side, as much as I could reasonably squeeze out of the seam allowance. I must have put a bit of weight on recently!

Polkadot Dress Front
Polkadot Dress Front

The dress is not lined, as the weather is warming up, and I have simply finished off the neck edge with a facing which is under stitched and secured at the shoulders.

Polkadot Dress back fitting image
Polkadot Dress back fitting
Polkadot Dress front image
Polkadot Dress front

Vanity sizing

I get quite a few emails asking for advice about which pattern size to use. Few of us fit the average dress size or even the size on the pattern packet.

I’ve done some digging around on the internet and discovered that pattern sizing, along with ready to wear clothes sizing has changed a lot over the years and continues to change. It is often referred to as vanity sizing and reflects the growing size of the general population. Example, in 1931 the smallest standard size for women was a size 10 US, which had a bust measurement of 28 inches, by 1971, forty years later, the smallest available size was a 6, however a size 10 now fit a bust of 33 ½ inches. Now another forty or so years on a US size 10 is made for a bust of 36 inches and we have seen the creation of size zero and negative sizes to accommodate people who have a small frame. With all this standard size changing as well as variation in sizing between the pattern manufactures its hardly surprising we get in such a mess when it comes to choosing which one to use to achieve the best fit.

First of all you need to know your own body measurements. Don’t guess at this, it is well worth being honest with the tape measure and making a note of what you are in both inches and centemeters. Some European patterns like Burda and Ottobre are in cm. Take more measurements than you think you need for the pattern to make any alterations possible. For instance under the bust, around the upper arm (arm girth), around the thigh and the full hip, where the waist is larger than the hip.

If you are fitting for a dress it is best to use your bust measurement as the lead measurement. This will give you the best chance of the right fit around the shoulders and back as well as the armholes. Make your pattern alterations as you work down the body from the correct bust. For the waist, if you need to increase, divide the increase by four and add it to each side seam, if my waist measures 34 inches and the pattern is for a waist of 30 inches then I divide the extra four inches and add one inch to each side seam at the waist line. Draw a smooth line down from the armpit to the new waist. Repeat this for the hip measurement as well. If you need to decrease the waist, then you are lucky, simply adjust the pattern by decreasing at the side seams.

Working in this way will mean that the sleeves will still fit in the arm holes and any darts will be in the same place. Of course there are many different advanced fitting alterations you can do to get the perfect fit but this is just intended to be a guide to choosing which size pattern to use as a starting point.

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Happy Sewing

Gingham Pyjamas

Have you ever made a pair of trousers, pants or shorts?

If you have never dared to make yourself a pair of trousers, shorts or pants before because you are concerned about getting the fitting right, then how about having a go at making a pair of pyjamas with an elasticated waist. It’s an easy way to have a go at making pants.

Gingham PJs image
Gingham PJs

As you know I’ve been exploring sewing different garments from gingham fabric throughout the entire month of April as a chance to explore this versatile fabric. I like so many things about it, the budget price for one and the fact that is does not have a right or wrong side and it both washes and irons very easily. I have had some style issues with using the Gingham fabric though because of it’s long association with children’s wear and country interiors, especially the pale, lighter and more pastel shades of gingham check. I used the small pink check to sew the shirt with the ¾ sleeves at the beginning of the month, you can’t go wrong with a checked shirt, and I like the way it turned out with the bright pink buttons down the front. My favourite make of the month has to be the black gingham dress which I completed last week. I think that the black check almost looks like a summer version of hounds tooth fabric. It has certainly convinced me that adults can wear this fabric and style it in a smart and elegant way.

So after all the fun of gingham month I need a rest (from the checked stuff, not from sewing) so I have made myself this pair of pink, large check pyjama bottoms to relax in!

This was the perfect opportunity for me to use my fancy embroidery stitches on my sewing machine, to embellish the pocket edges.

Gingham PJs Detail image
Gingham PJs Detail
Gingham PJs image
Gingham PJs

The pattern I’ve used for these gingham pyjamas is an amalgamation of two patterns which have merged together over time into my own pants pattern. It is part Burda, from one of the magazines, and part New Look. I also think that it is probably not a conventional size anymore but my own personal size instead. I love it when that happens with a pattern, when it becomes your own and you can rely on it and come back to visit it over and over for different makes, changing it for the season or for it’s use.

Gingham PJs Layout image
Gingham PJs Layout

I enjoyed the challenge of pattern matching.

Gingham PJs Layout image
Gingham PJs Layout


This is the first time that I have chosen to make sleepwear from this block. In the past I have used it for lightweight summer pants with both slim and wide legs, just altering the taper of the width of the leg but always keeping the pattern top the same so that the fit around the body is right.

Gingham Pjs image
Gingham Pjs