Tag Archives: Dallia Dress

How to sew a concealed zipper

There is just no getting around the fact that in order to sew your own beautiful clothes you need to be able to master certain skills and techniques. One of these has got to be the neat insertion of a zip into your garment.

I thought we could take a look at how to apply a concealed or invisible zip. It gives a very polished, finished look and can be used wherever you would use a regular zip.

If you are used to inserting conventional zips the method of sewing in a concealed zip can seem a bit unusual or backwards at first.

Before you start

You will need a special concealed zipper foot for your sewing machine, these are different for each manufacture.

How to sew a concealed zipper

Do not stitch the seam where the zip is to go at all before you put the zip in! (this is the part which takes some getting used to!)

Open your zip completely. Place it in position on the outside/right side, of your fabric. The top stop should be 1.25cm/ ½ inch from the seam line at the neck edge for a dress or top and the same distance down from the waist for a skirt or trousers.

Pin the zip in position, you can baste it in position here if you are new to this method or you think the fabric might move about during sewing.

Sewing a Concealed Zipper image
Sewing a Concealed Zipper

 

Using your concealed zipper foot attachment, place the groove of the foot over the teeth of the zip with needle on the zip tape. you may need to adjust the position of the needle on the sewing machine so that the stitches will be nice and close to the teeth, but not so close that they catch on them.

Sewing a Concealed Zipper image
Sewing a Concealed Zipper

Continue to stitch down the length of the zip, go slowly if you need to, to ensure good positioning. Sew until your zipper foot comes into contact with the slider at the bottom of the zip.

Sewing a Concealed Zipper image
Sewing a Concealed Zipper Slider

Repeat the same process for the other side of the zip. You will now be using the other groove in the zipper foot and may have to change the sewing machine needle position again.

Remove any basting stitches.
When both sides of the zip are attached you can sew the remainder of the seam closed. Do this with the zip closed, using your regular sewing foot. Avoid catching the bottom of the zip in the seam as you sew it. You can secure the bottom ends of the zip to your seam allowance either by hand or machine stitch.

Dallia Dress with Concealed Zipper image
Dallia Dress with Concealed Zipper

I have used this method on the centre back zip of my Dallia dress, with a hook & eye above it to secure the fastening.

Dallia Dress Back image
Dallia Dress Back

Take a look at all the new patterns in my pattern store which updates regularly as new PDF downloadable patterns are added.

Please leave any comments below. Also subscribe to the newsletter and follow me on google+facebooktwitterand bloglovin to keep in touch.

Happy Sewing

How to sew an in-seam pocket – Dallia Dress

Continuing with my chosen theme of sewing with floral fabrics in March, I have selected this very crisp cotton print of florals on a black background.

Do you like to step outside your comfort zone with different fabric choices from time to time, to experiment with your style?

Dark florals are a print style that I have taken a while to warm to, however I can now declare quite confidently that I really do like them. It’s one of those strange facts about life that the more you look out for something, the more of it you see and I now see dark floral fabric on everything, everywhere I go, from clothing, including men’s shirts, to lunch boxes and home furnishings.

Dallia Shift Dress Side Pocket
Dallia Shift Dress Side Pocket

Dark floral dresses seem to have been hitting the worlds runway shows for a few seasons now and the designs have filtered down to the high street collections. As home sewers and dressmakers though we know we can make it better than the high street! Better quality fabric and a much better personal fit and usually for a better price too. That said, inspiration has to flow from a starting point. I have put a link to my pinterest board which contains a small collection of the big name designers, like Dolce & Gabbana, Carolina Herrera, Alexander Mcqueen and Michael Kors, who have all explored this idea of the dark floral in their various different ways.

Follow Sewing Avenue’s board Dark Floral Inspiration on Pinterest.

Pockets

When I was creating the pattern for my Dallia shift dress I wanted to make it a very wearable garment and nothing makes a piece of clothing more practical than the addition of useful pockets.

They give you somewhere to keep your tissue or your loose change. They can however have a down side when it comes to creating elegant lines on a dress, skirt or shirt. It is very tempting to fill your pockets with items which really pull the cloth out of shape.

There are many different types of pockets, the Patch, Welt, Kangaroo and In-seam Pocket, to name just a few, and each has its uses on different styles of clothing. I wanted to include pockets on my Dallia Dress which would give it a relaxed day wear look and be useful but not change the line of the body, so I have gone with the inseam pocket style here.

How to sew an in-seam pocket

 

This is a technique which uses a separate in-seam pocket piece. It gives you the option of having pockets on both sides of the dress, just one side or even leaving them out of the pattern all together.

In this project I am putting pockets in both side seams.

Dallia Shift Dress - In Seam Pocket Placement
Dallia Shift Dress – In Seam Pocket Placement

Start by marking the position of the pockets that you want, they are suggested on the pattern, however you can adjust the positioning so that it is perfect for you.
With right sides of the pocket and the dress fabric facing one another, pin pocket piece in place between your markings. Stitch along the seam allowance between your markings, leaving the 1.5cm/ ⅝ inch unstitched at each end of the pocket piece.

Repeat this for the other side.

Place the back and the front of the dress pieces right sides together with the pockets extended to the outside of the seam.

Dallia Shift Dress - In Seam Pocket Construction
Dallia Shift Dress – In Seam Pocket Construction

Pin the seam including the pocket pieces in place.

Stitch the side seam from the hem up to and then around the pocket pieces, reinforce at the pocket markings by sewing a few back- stitches, then continuing up to the under arm edge.

Press the pockets flat.

Under-stitch inside the pocket pieces ¼ inch/0.5 cm from the side seam to prevent them from rolling out.

Dallia Shift Dress Seam Pocket
Dallia Shift Dress Seam Pocket

Take a look at all the new patterns in my pattern store which updates regularly as new PDF downloadable patterns are added.

Please leave any comments below. Also subscribe to the newsletter and follow me on google+facebooktwitterand bloglovin to keep in touch.

Happy Sewing