Tag Archives: flat-felled seam

Rosie Shirt


Rosie Shirt Floral with Denim image
Rosie Shirt Floral with Denim

Women’s shirts are definitely huge fashion news this season. Shirts in all their styles and variations, long, sleeveless, dress length, denim and lace. All the big name designers including Michael Kors, Diane von Furstenberg, and Ralph Lauren, sent shirts down the runways this season. They are perfect and so practical to wear easily at work, rest and play, you can never have too many! Even though they can be thought of as a bit masculine, there is actually nothing more sexy than a well designed basic shirt, must be something to do with the simplicity of it.

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This is the last of my March floral fabric projects. The others are Dallia Shift Dress, Floral Sleeveless Dress Sewing Pattern and How to sew an in-seam pocket – Dallia Dress.


Rosie Shirt Floral image
Rosie Shirt Floral

I have had great fun this week sewing together the Rosie (floral name) shirt. This is a pattern which I have used many times before to make shirts for myself and family and I am very pleased that it is now available in the pattern store.

The Rosie shirt has attractive three quarter length sleeves with feminine gathering around the cuff band and a few little gathers at the back across the yoke for comfort. The bust darts give shape and there are two collar choices, rounded or the traditional pointed option.

I have combined the sumptuous floral rose fabric with a dark denim at the collar and front bands to contrast not only the look but also the weight of the different fabrics against one another.

I am so pleased with the way it has turned out that I am going to bombard you with shirts over the next few blogs! I’m going to make a cotton lawn one and a pink gingham one at least, possibly even more.

Let me know in the comments how you make your shirts.

Do you use a construction method like making a mans formal shirt or a more dressmaker approach with just the one yoke and no flat felled seam? I tend to use a mixture of both at different times but on this occasion I’ve opted for a more blouse like construction without the more tailored techniques of a man’s shirt.

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Happy Sewing

How to sew a flat-felled seam

A flat-felled seam is an easy technique to master and very useful. It gives a very strong seam finish to a garment. It is often used on trousers and denim jeans as well as shirts for extra durability. It can also be used as a decorative seam finish as it is formed on the right side of the fabric.

I’ve used two different cotton fabrics and a contrasting thread so hopefully its easy for you to see what’s going on and how I’m making the seam

Step 1

With the wrong sides of the fabric together, stitch along the seam line. Take the full width of the seam allowance. On most commercial patterns this will be 15mm or 5/8 inch, but please check first as they can vary. Press the seam open.

Step 1 - How to sew a flat-felled seam - Sewing Avenue
Step 1 – How to sew a flat-felled seam – Sewing Avenue

Step 2

Trim the inner seam allowance to about 3 mm or 1/8 inch. Take care not to cut into the sewing line. You should be able to judge this by eye, there is no need to measure for exact accuracy.

Step 3

Press the outer seam allowance under by 6mm or ¼ inch; making sure you keep it uniform all the way along all of your seams. Be careful to press like seams in the same direction as one another (e.g. both shoulder seams should be pressed towards the front).

Step 3 - How to sew a flat-felled seam - Sewing Avenue
Step 3 – How to sew a flat-felled seam – Sewing Avenue

Step 4

Stitch this folded edge to the garment using a top stitch. Top stitching usually uses a longer stitch length than a seam line stitch. Take a note of the stitch you are going to use, either straight or decorative and ensure you keep using the same one through out the whole garment. This can be colour matched to your fabric or you can use a decorative thread or stitch for added effect.

Step 4 - How to sew a flat-felled seam - Sewing Avenue
Step 4 – How to sew a flat-felled seam – Sewing Avenue

I like to use different types of seams to achieve different looks on the projects that I make. The flat-felled seam is a useful technique to master for use on shirts, especially men’s formal or dress shirts. It gives a clean, defined look with its rows of straight topstitching. It is also a good choice for children’s wear as the extra line of stitching add a lot of strength to the seams. Sports wear often uses visible, decorative seams too for both durability and decoration. If you are making sports clothing in a stretch fabric though, be sure to use the correct stretch stitch on both the seam line and the top stitching. A zigzag or flat lock stitch can look good here.