Women’s shirts are definitely huge fashion news this season. Shirts in all their styles and variations, long, sleeveless, dress length, denim and lace. All the big name designers including Michael Kors, Diane von Furstenberg, and Ralph Lauren, sent shirts down the runways this season. They are perfect and so practical to wear easily at work, rest and play, you can never have too many! Even though they can be thought of as a bit masculine, there is actually nothing more sexy than a well designed basic shirt, must be something to do with the simplicity of it.
I have had great fun this week sewing together the Rosie (floral name) shirt. This is a pattern which I have used many times before to make shirts for myself and family and I am very pleased that it is now available in the pattern store.
The Rosie shirt has attractive three quarter length sleeves with feminine gathering around the cuff band and a few little gathers at the back across the yoke for comfort. The bust darts give shape and there are two collar choices, rounded or the traditional pointed option.
I have combined the sumptuous floral rose fabric with a dark denim at the collar and front bands to contrast not only the look but also the weight of the different fabrics against one another.
I am so pleased with the way it has turned out that I am going to bombard you with shirts over the next few blogs! I’m going to make a cotton lawn one and a pink gingham one at least, possibly even more.
Let me know in the comments how you make your shirts.
Do you use a construction method like making a mans formal shirt or a more dressmaker approach with just the one yoke and no flat felled seam? I tend to use a mixture of both at different times but on this occasion I’ve opted for a more blouse like construction without the more tailored techniques of a man’s shirt.
Continuing with my chosen theme of sewing with floral fabrics in March, I have selected this very crisp cotton print of florals on a black background.
Do you like to step outside your comfort zone with different fabric choices from time to time, to experiment with your style?
Dark florals are a print style that I have taken a while to warm to, however I can now declare quite confidently that I really do like them. It’s one of those strange facts about life that the more you look out for something, the more of it you see and I now see dark floral fabric on everything, everywhere I go, from clothing, including men’s shirts, to lunch boxes and home furnishings.
Dark floral dresses seem to have been hitting the worlds runway shows for a few seasons now and the designs have filtered down to the high street collections. As home sewers and dressmakers though we know we can make it better than the high street! Better quality fabric and a much better personal fit and usually for a better price too. That said, inspiration has to flow from a starting point. I have put a link to my pinterest board which contains a small collection of the big name designers, like Dolce & Gabbana, Carolina Herrera, Alexander Mcqueen and Michael Kors, who have all explored this idea of the dark floral in their various different ways.
When I was creating the pattern for my Dallia shift dress I wanted to make it a very wearable garment and nothing makes a piece of clothing more practical than the addition of useful pockets.
They give you somewhere to keep your tissue or your loose change. They can however have a down side when it comes to creating elegant lines on a dress, skirt or shirt. It is very tempting to fill your pockets with items which really pull the cloth out of shape.
There are many different types of pockets, the Patch, Welt, Kangaroo and In-seam Pocket, to name just a few, and each has its uses on different styles of clothing. I wanted to include pockets on my Dallia Dress which would give it a relaxed day wear look and be useful but not change the line of the body, so I have gone with the inseam pocket style here.
How to sew an in-seam pocket
This is a technique which uses a separate in-seam pocket piece. It gives you the option of having pockets on both sides of the dress, just one side or even leaving them out of the pattern all together.
In this project I am putting pockets in both side seams.
Start by marking the position of the pockets that you want, they are suggested on the pattern, however you can adjust the positioning so that it is perfect for you.
With right sides of the pocket and the dress fabric facing one another, pin pocket piece in place between your markings. Stitch along the seam allowance between your markings, leaving the 1.5cm/ ⅝ inch unstitched at each end of the pocket piece.
Repeat this for the other side.
Place the back and the front of the dress pieces right sides together with the pockets extended to the outside of the seam.
Pin the seam including the pocket pieces in place.
Stitch the side seam from the hem up to and then around the pocket pieces, reinforce at the pocket markings by sewing a few back- stitches, then continuing up to the under arm edge.
Press the pockets flat.
Under-stitch inside the pocket pieces ¼ inch/0.5 cm from the side seam to prevent them from rolling out.
Take a look at all the new patterns in my pattern store which updates regularly as new PDF downloadable patterns are added.