Tag Archives: French Seam

Sheer Shirt

Have you ever had a pattern and you don’t know why you bought it?

I was looking through some of my pattern stash recently, and I have to say that it is quite considerable now, when I came across this one, New look 6305. I don’t quite know why I collect so many patterns. I think it is a bit like people who like books knowing that they can not possibly read them all but they just have to own them. I know that I will never have the time to make everything that I want to sew but some how owning the patterns is inspiring and keeps the sewing juices flowing.

Sheer Shirt Pattern image
Sheer Shirt Pattern

Getting back to New Look 6350, I don’t recall acquiring such a boring looking pattern with such an ugly envelope picture. However, I thought that I would set myself a little challenge to make a wearable and possibly even fashionable garment from this uninspiring look.

The fabric I’ve used is a patterned sheer, which has been in the stash for quite some time waiting for it’s turn at the sewing machine.

Sheer Shirt Bust Dart image
Sheer Shirt Bust Dart

The seams are all sewn as french seams so that all the edges are encased and will not fray. This also looks nice as of the seams are visible from the outside of the sheer, see through fabric. The only seam which is not a french seam is around the sleeve head which I could have stitched as a flat felled seam, however I attached as usual then serged to lock the two layers of fabric together. In the finished photographs I think it looks neat enough.

I traced off the pattern pieces for view C on the packet picture. I did this instead of cutting out the actual paper pattern itself because I was not sure if I would be cutting it about and restyling the pieces . In the end though after making a toile from a piece of cotton sheeting fabric which I buy just for this purpose, it was decided to simply lengthen the bodice and slightly reduce the width of the edging band. I also did not put the cuff band onto the sleeves as they were long enough already and the cuff made them look too heavy for the sheer fabric.
The sleeves now finish at the same point as the bodice hemline.

Sheer Shirt Front image
Sheer Shirt Front
Sheer Shirt Side image
Sheer Shirt Side

Sheer-Shirt-Back-5536

My assessment of the final shirt is that I shouldn’t be too quick to judge a pattern and just because the picture on the packet looks a bit dated it only needs a small helping of inspiration to nudge it back into fashion. It is a very easy top to wear. I think it would be very comfortable and up to date made from a sweatshirt fabric, maybe grey or another neutral tone. It would also work in cotton, silk, denim or something with a bit of stretch like a ponte roma.

I guess I shall have to create a dress next from the rest of the pattern.

Sheer Shirt Front image
Sheer Shirt Front

How to Sew a French Seam

Hello or should I say Bonjour ?

Todays blog tutorial is How to Sew a French Seam.

The french seam is a very neat encased seam which has the reputation of being difficult to achieve but it really is not. You do however have to get used to the method of sewing with the wrong sides of your fabric together, which seems a bit backwards at first. It is stitched twice, once from the right side and once from the wrong side. It is the classic seam finish for sheer and very light weight fabric, enclosing all of the fabric edges so they can not fray open. It looks nice when the finished width is just ¼ inch or 6mm. It is best used on straight seems as going around curved edges can be tricky. For curved edges it is better to apply the mock french seam (another tutorial).

Step 1

With the wrong sides of the fabric together, stitch ⅜ inch or 1 cm from the edge.

Step 1, sewing, french seams
Step 1, sewing, french seams

Step 2

Trim seam allowances to ⅛ inch or 3 mm.

Step 2, sewing, french seam
Step 2, sewing, french seam

 

Step 3

Press the seam open. Fold the fabric so that the right sides are together with the stitched line exactly on the edge of the fold and press along the seam edge again.

Step 3, sewing, french seam
Step 3, sewing, french seam

Step 4

Stitch on your seamline, which is now ¼ inch or 6 mm from the fold. Press finished seam to one side.

Step 4, sewing, french seam
Step 4, sewing, french seam

 

Voilas,

Now you have the perfect french seam for all of your sheer, silk and light weight fabric projects. Use the comments box below to tell me what’s on your sewing table at the moment, I’d love to hear from you.

Happy sewing