Tag Archives: in seam pocket

Blue Dress

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Do I look blue?

I don’t make a habit of posting pattern reviews as that is not really how I work. I would usually like to find my inspiration and then work out how to create a dress or outfit from that starting point, out of the patterns I have either bought, altered or made myself. For some reason though I wanted to take this very mundane and ordinary, even frumpy looking pattern, New Look 6305 and work with it to come up with a usable item. A personal challenge for myself to create a wearable garment or two.

Last time I showed you how I made the Sheer Shirt from view D on the packet envelope, this time I have used chosen to sew view A, the dress with sleeves.

Sheer Shirt Pattern image
Sheer Shirt Pattern

I made three decisions about the pattern before I had even started to cut it out, to take ten, yes a full ten, inches off the length of the dress, to have short sleeves for the summer and to add inseam pockets to both side seams. As it is a loose fitting, easy day dress I wanted the addition of the pockets for more practicality. I used my own pattern for the pockets which I had used previously in my Dallia Dress.

Blue Dress Layout image
Blue Dress Layout

My main concern about the construction of this dress was the fact that it has no zipper or back/front opening and I wondered how it would fit over the head. Now It is finished though I can tell you that this is not an issue at all, it slips on very easily even though the fabric I have used has no stretch in it whatsoever. It is a woven crepe fabric, I was attracted by the vivid colour for this blue dress.

The dress has princess seams in both the back and the front of the body, they are not graded by bust size as some patterns are, which means that the fit of the dress on my smaller frame is very baggy, much more roomy than I would normally be comfortable wearing. Considering that the full pattern is for a floor length dress with sleeves to the wrist, this is a real cover it all up style. If that is what you want then this is the perfect pattern for you, however I have struggled with finding ways to be complimentary about this pattern. I have not enjoyed sewing this dress together and it will not be making the journey into my favourites list any time soon. I will however try and reflect upon the lessons learnt in the process and that I have learnt more about my own likes and dislikes about my own creative process which was very much missing here.

Blue Dress Side image
Blue Dress Side
Blue Dress Back image
Blue Dress Back

You can bet that my next post is going to be more about my style, a more fitted type of dress which compliments the figure in a much more feminine way. I will be using an old favorite which I know fits well and mixing it up a bit to create a smart summer dress for a special family occasion.

That said, it was a straightforward sew which I can recommend as a beginner project, no fastenings or lining to worry about.

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Happy Sewing

How to sew an in-seam pocket – Dallia Dress

Continuing with my chosen theme of sewing with floral fabrics in March, I have selected this very crisp cotton print of florals on a black background.

Do you like to step outside your comfort zone with different fabric choices from time to time, to experiment with your style?

Dark florals are a print style that I have taken a while to warm to, however I can now declare quite confidently that I really do like them. It’s one of those strange facts about life that the more you look out for something, the more of it you see and I now see dark floral fabric on everything, everywhere I go, from clothing, including men’s shirts, to lunch boxes and home furnishings.

Dallia Shift Dress Side Pocket
Dallia Shift Dress Side Pocket

Dark floral dresses seem to have been hitting the worlds runway shows for a few seasons now and the designs have filtered down to the high street collections. As home sewers and dressmakers though we know we can make it better than the high street! Better quality fabric and a much better personal fit and usually for a better price too. That said, inspiration has to flow from a starting point. I have put a link to my pinterest board which contains a small collection of the big name designers, like Dolce & Gabbana, Carolina Herrera, Alexander Mcqueen and Michael Kors, who have all explored this idea of the dark floral in their various different ways.

Follow Sewing Avenue’s board Dark Floral Inspiration on Pinterest.

Pockets

When I was creating the pattern for my Dallia shift dress I wanted to make it a very wearable garment and nothing makes a piece of clothing more practical than the addition of useful pockets.

They give you somewhere to keep your tissue or your loose change. They can however have a down side when it comes to creating elegant lines on a dress, skirt or shirt. It is very tempting to fill your pockets with items which really pull the cloth out of shape.

There are many different types of pockets, the Patch, Welt, Kangaroo and In-seam Pocket, to name just a few, and each has its uses on different styles of clothing. I wanted to include pockets on my Dallia Dress which would give it a relaxed day wear look and be useful but not change the line of the body, so I have gone with the inseam pocket style here.

How to sew an in-seam pocket

 

This is a technique which uses a separate in-seam pocket piece. It gives you the option of having pockets on both sides of the dress, just one side or even leaving them out of the pattern all together.

In this project I am putting pockets in both side seams.

Dallia Shift Dress - In Seam Pocket Placement
Dallia Shift Dress – In Seam Pocket Placement

Start by marking the position of the pockets that you want, they are suggested on the pattern, however you can adjust the positioning so that it is perfect for you.
With right sides of the pocket and the dress fabric facing one another, pin pocket piece in place between your markings. Stitch along the seam allowance between your markings, leaving the 1.5cm/ ⅝ inch unstitched at each end of the pocket piece.

Repeat this for the other side.

Place the back and the front of the dress pieces right sides together with the pockets extended to the outside of the seam.

Dallia Shift Dress - In Seam Pocket Construction
Dallia Shift Dress – In Seam Pocket Construction

Pin the seam including the pocket pieces in place.

Stitch the side seam from the hem up to and then around the pocket pieces, reinforce at the pocket markings by sewing a few back- stitches, then continuing up to the under arm edge.

Press the pockets flat.

Under-stitch inside the pocket pieces ¼ inch/0.5 cm from the side seam to prevent them from rolling out.

Dallia Shift Dress Seam Pocket
Dallia Shift Dress Seam Pocket

Take a look at all the new patterns in my pattern store which updates regularly as new PDF downloadable patterns are added.

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Happy Sewing