Tag Archives: lapped zipper

Black Gingham Dress

This is the much awaited second black gingham dress that I have made from my black gingham fabric. The first one was last week’ s blog post. I have made it from the same pattern that I used for the Burgundy Cocktail dress with the cowl neck back at the beginning of February this year.

Black Gingham Dress Long front image
Black Gingham Dress Long front

The pattern is Vogue V8787 option F on the packet envelope.

I had some fitting issues with this pattern as the shape of the back bodice pieces was all wrong for my body shape. The pattern allows for a lot of space in the upper back, I know that there should be room allowed for ease of movement, however in this instance there was enough room for me to be able to wear it backwards! As usual for me, the waist was too high and therefore I decided in the end to redraft the whole bodice pattern, using the Vogue pieces as a starting point.

Now I think it works and fits properly. I know from past experience that It is always worth getting the pattern fit correct at the beginning of the process rather than facing the disappointment of wasted time and expense later on.

Black Gingham Dress Pattern image
Black Gingham Dress Pattern

The length of the finished dress is the length given in the paper pattern. I am not sure if I will shorten it, its all about proportion and I think the balance is right at this length, however my gut instinct is to finish it above the knee. So I may well play around with the hem a bit more at a later date. I’ve just turned it under in the photo to get an idea of how it would look. What do you think? should I leave it longer or shorten it? I an more than happy to go with the group consensus on this.

Please let me know your point of view in the comments.

Black Gingham Dress Side image
Black Gingham Dress Side
Black Gingham Dress Short Front image
Black Gingham Dress Short Front
Black Gingham Dress Short Front image
Black Gingham Dress Short Front
Black Gingham Dress Short Back
Black Gingham Dress Short Back

I actually ran out of my stash of dress zips this week, black and white ones anyway. I usually make sure that I have a selection of regular and concealed dress length zips in my stock so that I don’t have to stop half way through a project to go and buy supplies. However this time I had to make a special trip to stock up so that I could complete the dress. This meant that I lost my flow and things ended up taking a few days longer than usual.

Black Gingham Dress Back Zipper image
Black Gingham Dress Back Zipper

I’ve used a lapped zip insertion down the centre back seam. I find that I can achieve a neat finish at the upper neck edge using this method and it is not necessary to add a hidden button or a hook and eye to fasten the top together. I insert the zip carefully by basting it all into place first before sewing machining. I find that a little more time spent here on this stage of the process saves a lot of unpicking and correction time later on. I keep going on about preparation and I believe that it is key to a successful piece of sewing or craft work, like so many things in life.

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Happy Sewing