Tag Archives: pdf

How to sew an in-seam pocket – Dallia Dress

Continuing with my chosen theme of sewing with floral fabrics in March, I have selected this very crisp cotton print of florals on a black background.

Do you like to step outside your comfort zone with different fabric choices from time to time, to experiment with your style?

Dark florals are a print style that I have taken a while to warm to, however I can now declare quite confidently that I really do like them. It’s one of those strange facts about life that the more you look out for something, the more of it you see and I now see dark floral fabric on everything, everywhere I go, from clothing, including men’s shirts, to lunch boxes and home furnishings.

Dallia Shift Dress Side Pocket
Dallia Shift Dress Side Pocket

Dark floral dresses seem to have been hitting the worlds runway shows for a few seasons now and the designs have filtered down to the high street collections. As home sewers and dressmakers though we know we can make it better than the high street! Better quality fabric and a much better personal fit and usually for a better price too. That said, inspiration has to flow from a starting point. I have put a link to my pinterest board which contains a small collection of the big name designers, like Dolce & Gabbana, Carolina Herrera, Alexander Mcqueen and Michael Kors, who have all explored this idea of the dark floral in their various different ways.

Follow Sewing Avenue’s board Dark Floral Inspiration on Pinterest.

Pockets

When I was creating the pattern for my Dallia shift dress I wanted to make it a very wearable garment and nothing makes a piece of clothing more practical than the addition of useful pockets.

They give you somewhere to keep your tissue or your loose change. They can however have a down side when it comes to creating elegant lines on a dress, skirt or shirt. It is very tempting to fill your pockets with items which really pull the cloth out of shape.

There are many different types of pockets, the Patch, Welt, Kangaroo and In-seam Pocket, to name just a few, and each has its uses on different styles of clothing. I wanted to include pockets on my Dallia Dress which would give it a relaxed day wear look and be useful but not change the line of the body, so I have gone with the inseam pocket style here.

How to sew an in-seam pocket

 

This is a technique which uses a separate in-seam pocket piece. It gives you the option of having pockets on both sides of the dress, just one side or even leaving them out of the pattern all together.

In this project I am putting pockets in both side seams.

Dallia Shift Dress - In Seam Pocket Placement
Dallia Shift Dress – In Seam Pocket Placement

Start by marking the position of the pockets that you want, they are suggested on the pattern, however you can adjust the positioning so that it is perfect for you.
With right sides of the pocket and the dress fabric facing one another, pin pocket piece in place between your markings. Stitch along the seam allowance between your markings, leaving the 1.5cm/ ⅝ inch unstitched at each end of the pocket piece.

Repeat this for the other side.

Place the back and the front of the dress pieces right sides together with the pockets extended to the outside of the seam.

Dallia Shift Dress - In Seam Pocket Construction
Dallia Shift Dress – In Seam Pocket Construction

Pin the seam including the pocket pieces in place.

Stitch the side seam from the hem up to and then around the pocket pieces, reinforce at the pocket markings by sewing a few back- stitches, then continuing up to the under arm edge.

Press the pockets flat.

Under-stitch inside the pocket pieces ¼ inch/0.5 cm from the side seam to prevent them from rolling out.

Dallia Shift Dress Seam Pocket
Dallia Shift Dress Seam Pocket

Take a look at all the new patterns in my pattern store which updates regularly as new PDF downloadable patterns are added.

Please leave any comments below. Also subscribe to the newsletter and follow me on google+facebooktwitterand bloglovin to keep in touch.

Happy Sewing

Floral Sleeveless Dress Sewing Pattern

How to make your own Hyacinth Sleeveless Dress

Do you ever wish you had the perfect dress for many different occasions? Well this Floral Sleeveless Dress Sewing Pattern may be the perfect pattern to use to create many dresses for those occasions, office, school run, shopping, socialising.

I have chosen to make it from a colourful floral fabric made from viscose ( that’s what the ticket said), it has a really lovely drape to it and hangs beautifully. You could use many different types of fabric for this dress though, cotton, poly cotton, ponti roma or even wool blends or denim. The simple style of the dress also lends itself to embellishment and decoration if that is what you like to make.

Hyacinth-Sleeveless-Dress-4623
Finished Hyacinth Sleeveless Dress

 

Once you have downloaded and printed off your pdf pattern, assemble the paper pattern pieces like a jigsaw following the construction diagram. Tape the pieces together and carefully cut out your desired size. As always, with all patterns, make any personal alterations, such as length, to fit your shape and size. 

Hyacinth Sleeveless Dress Pattern
Hyacinth Sleeveless Dress Pattern

 

The Hyacinth Sleeveless Dress is a great beginner level fashion sewing project

This is because there are just five simple pattern pieces, the back and back facing, the front and front facing and the optional inseam pocket piece.

You will need to cut out from your fashion fabric, one front piece on a fold, one front facing piece on a fold, two back pieces, two back facings and if you are including side seam pockets you will need to cut out four pocket pieces.

I’m going to go through how to sew the facing into the dress so that all of the neck and armhole edges are faced simply and beautifully so that all of the raw edges will be caught inside.

When you have cut out all of your fabric pieces, start by marking the dart positioning. Stitch the front darts in place and with your Iron press them downwards. Then sew the shoulder seams together on the main dress and the shoulder seams on the facing pieces, press these open.

When you have done this lay the main dress out on your work table and place the facing on top of it with the right sides together. Get everything all aligned and matched up and pin it in place. 

Hyacinth-Dress-Position-the-Facing4574

 

Sew all around the neck edge and both armhole edges taking your full ⅝ inch/1.5 cm seam allowance. 

Hyacinth Sleeveless Dress Snipping Seam Allowance
Hyacinth Sleeveless Dress Snipping Seam Allowance

With sharp scissors, snip into the seam allowance close to your stitching line but do not cut into it, to help ease the curve and create the right shape. Now you have done this for both armholes and the neck edge, lay the work out flat on your work table again. 

Hyacinth Dress Turing the facing
Hyacinth Dress Turing the facing

 

Turning the facing all the right way around

Now for the best bit!

Put your hand up into the front of the garment between the fabric and the facing and take hold of the back piece. Pull the back all of the way through to the front. Repeat on the other side. The first time I did this I thought it was magic how it all came together!

 

Hyacinth Sleeveless Dress Turing the facing
Hyacinth Sleeveless Dress Turing the facing

 

Hyacinth Sleeveless Dress Facing
Hyacinth Sleeveless Dress Facing

 

Topstitch around the neck and armhole edges, working slowly and guiding it through the sewing machine, on the facing fabric about ¼ inch/ 0.5 cm from the seam stitch line. This will stop the facing from rolling out over the finished front edge. 

Hyacinth Sleeveless Dres Top Stitching
Hyacinth Sleeveless Dres Top Stitching

 

With the right sides of your fabric together, sew  both of the side seams together from the hem all the way up the side and continue up the facing to the top edge.

On the center back seam measure down from the top of the main fabric 6 inches/ 15 cm and mark this point. Sew the back seam together, leaving the opening at the top.

You are almost finished now!

Top stitch along the sides of the back seam opening. Turn the facing in and neaten by stitching in place. The special little touch at the opening top is a loop and button fastening. Find a single fabulous button to compliment the colour of the dress and it will be a real feature.

 

Hyacinth Sleeveless Dress Back
Hyacinth Sleeveless Dress Back

 

Lastly you just need to hem the dress to your required length, give it all a press and it is ready for you to wear out.

All done.

How many Hyacinth Sleeveless Dresses can you make in a day?

Take a look at all the new patterns in my pattern store which updates regularly as new PDF downloadable patterns are added.

Please leave any comments below. Also subscribe to the newsletter and follow me on google+facebooktwitterand bloglovin to keep in touch.

Happy Sewing