Tag Archives: sewing tutorial

How to sew a concealed zipper

There is just no getting around the fact that in order to sew your own beautiful clothes you need to be able to master certain skills and techniques. One of these has got to be the neat insertion of a zip into your garment.

I thought we could take a look at how to apply a concealed or invisible zip. It gives a very polished, finished look and can be used wherever you would use a regular zip.

If you are used to inserting conventional zips the method of sewing in a concealed zip can seem a bit unusual or backwards at first.

Before you start

You will need a special concealed zipper foot for your sewing machine, these are different for each manufacture.

How to sew a concealed zipper

Do not stitch the seam where the zip is to go at all before you put the zip in! (this is the part which takes some getting used to!)

Open your zip completely. Place it in position on the outside/right side, of your fabric. The top stop should be 1.25cm/ ½ inch from the seam line at the neck edge for a dress or top and the same distance down from the waist for a skirt or trousers.

Pin the zip in position, you can baste it in position here if you are new to this method or you think the fabric might move about during sewing.

Sewing a Concealed Zipper image
Sewing a Concealed Zipper


Using your concealed zipper foot attachment, place the groove of the foot over the teeth of the zip with needle on the zip tape. you may need to adjust the position of the needle on the sewing machine so that the stitches will be nice and close to the teeth, but not so close that they catch on them.

Sewing a Concealed Zipper image
Sewing a Concealed Zipper

Continue to stitch down the length of the zip, go slowly if you need to, to ensure good positioning. Sew until your zipper foot comes into contact with the slider at the bottom of the zip.

Sewing a Concealed Zipper image
Sewing a Concealed Zipper Slider

Repeat the same process for the other side of the zip. You will now be using the other groove in the zipper foot and may have to change the sewing machine needle position again.

Remove any basting stitches.
When both sides of the zip are attached you can sew the remainder of the seam closed. Do this with the zip closed, using your regular sewing foot. Avoid catching the bottom of the zip in the seam as you sew it. You can secure the bottom ends of the zip to your seam allowance either by hand or machine stitch.

Dallia Dress with Concealed Zipper image
Dallia Dress with Concealed Zipper

I have used this method on the centre back zip of my Dallia dress, with a hook & eye above it to secure the fastening.

Dallia Dress Back image
Dallia Dress Back

Take a look at all the new patterns in my pattern store which updates regularly as new PDF downloadable patterns are added.

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Happy Sewing

Free Sewing Pattern – The Camellia Top

It is here, the free sewing pattern giveaway.


Simply fill in your Email address, on the link ,“Email Newsletter” and I’ll send you a link to download your very own copy of the Camellia Top.

Don’t forget to follow me on Bloglovin and twitter so that you do not miss any pattern updates and information.

I am very excited to be able to give away my awesome Camellia Top Pattern for you to use.

As you may know  I have been working  to create a pattern of my own to use here on Sewing Avenue with you. It is now ready and I love the end result, it is a very useful pattern which we can use and manipulate in many ways to create an infinite amount of designs and very wearable tops.

Camellia Top in Silver
Camellia Top in Silver

So far I have had time to make the Camellia Top in three different fabrics for three completely different looks.

Camellia Top in Pink
Camellia Top in Pink


I’ve made it in a bright pink with a black trim, a floral cotton with a white bias binding and a shiny silver satin.
I have big plans for this little top and I am going to be making it again in future blogs to create different looks for many occasions.

Camellia Top in Floral
Camellia Top in Floral

The Camellia Top

The Camellia Top is a fantastic item to add to any woman’s wardrobe. This top is very easy to make and comes as just two simple pattern pieces, a back and a front. There are two bust darts in the front piece to create a bit of shape and it is edged with bias binding. You can easily make your own bias binding so it contrasts or compliments the colour of the shirt. Cotton fabric is best for this but many other fabrics work well too.

It is a top which will never go out of style and can be updated for any season in a wide range of fabrics. I also think this is an ageless piece which would suit anyone from eight to eighty.

I have decided to share the fun with you so therefore I am making this pattern available for everyone to download completely free.

Simply fill in your Email address on this link, “Email Newsletter” and I’ll send you a link to download your very own copy of the Camellia Top. I promise that your Email details will be held in confidence and never shared with anyone.

This pdf pattern covers sizes US 4/UK 8, US 6/UK 10, US 8/UK 12.
It prints out in both A4 and Letter and uses 9 pieces of paper. It also comes with a construction diagram for assembling the pattern pieces and instructions for making up the garment. There is further information for you on the  downloading and printing  page of this blog site in case you should experience any download problems or printing difficulties.

I intend to get the pattern made in more sizes before the end of February, upto and including sizes US 20/UK 24, so if you don’t see the size you need here please be patient and I’ll have it ready as soon as possible and post a blog about it when it is done. Then you too can enjoy making many Camellia tops for yourself and your friends and family.

Please leave a comment below or at Sarah Wilson on facebook or via twitter. I am always pleased to hear from you.


Camellia Top Pattern
Camellia Top Pattern


Happy sewing